Friday, May 26, 2017

Time Machine

U modnom svetu, termin vintage se odnosi na kvalitetnu i firmiranu garderobu koja se vezuje na određeni vremenski period iz prošlosti. Osim potpisa dizajnera, vrednost ovakvoj garderobi često povećava i sama činjenica da ju je neka slavna ličnost prošetala. Međutim, neretko se vezuje za nenošenu garderobu. Kao neko kome kupovina u second hand buticima nije strana, povućiću paralelu između vintage i second hand butika. Garderoba u second hand buticima je nošena garderoba novije proizvodnje, manje poznatih ili potpuno nepoznatih brendova i često sa felerom. 

In the world of fashion, the term vintage applies to quality brand clothes that are tied to a specific era from past. Aside from the signature of the designer, the value of this kind of clothes comes from the fact that it was worn by a celebrity at one point. But, it can often be tied to clothes that weren't worn. As someone who doesn't find second hand shopping odd, I'll try to draw a parallel between vintage and second hand clothes shops. Clothes in second hand shops are usually newer in production and worn, made by less known or completely unknown brands and often with a factory mistake.

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Ukoliko držite do sopstvenog stila, volite da se igrate sa dezenima, stilovima, materijalima, putem mode koračate kroz prošlost onda je Vintage Shop RetroRooms pravo mesto za vas. Dve Marije iz ljubavi prema vintage stilu, udružile su energije i pripremile brojna iznenađenja. Od sledeće nedelje biće pokrenuta online prodaja i za inostranstvo, a ja ću vas putem bloga i ostalih drugih društvenih mreža blagovremeno obaveštavati. Do tada nas pratite naš instagram i facebook profil i uživajte u nastavku objave. Pripremila sam vam pravi vremeplov!

If you hold up to your own style, like to play with patterns, styles and materials, and you walk the fashion road through the past, then Vintage Shop RetroRooms is the right place for you. Two Marias with passion for the vintage style have joined their energy and have prepared numerous surprises. Starting next week, the online store will be opened worldwide, and I'll keep you updated through this blog and other social networks. Until then, follow our Instagram and Facebook pages and enjoy the rest of this post. I've prepared a real time machine for you!

Marija Krstevski & Marija Božić

1910s

Ovo razdoblje je u velikoj meri pratilo modu XIX veka. Muškarci su nosili pufnaste pantalone sužene oko gležnjeva, a žene raskošne haljine i suknje do poda sa korsetima. Dakle, ovaj stil odevanja se može karakterisati kao raskošan, egzotičan i ekstravagantan. Od detalja koristili su se krzneni ogrtači, mufovi i šeširi. Sa pojavom hrabrog dizajnera Paula Poireta pojavljuju se ženske modne linije koje isključuju nošenje korseta. Ovaj period je obeležen I svetskim ratom, usled kog su modne kućne bile primorane na obustavu rada.

This era largely followed the fashion of the XIX century. Men wore puffy pants that were tight around the ankles, while women wore lavish dresses and skirts with corsets. This way of dressing can be characterised as luxurious, exotic and extravagant. Detail-wise, there were fur coats, muffs and hats. With introductions made by brave designer Paul Poiret womens' clothes started dropping corsets. This period was marked by World War, during which fashion houses were forced to stop working.

1920s

Dvadesetih godina prošlog veka pokrenuta je revolucija u industriji mode. Inicijator revolucije bila je slavna Koko Šanel. Vođena sopstvenim modernističkim nagonima, kreirala je žensku garderobu po ugledu na mušku. Počele su da se nose sve kraće haljine, ravnih i udobnih krojeva, a akcenat se stavljao na udobnost i jednostavnost. Među njima se izdvojila slavna mala crna haljina, koja i dan danas predstavlja neizostavan komad u svakom ženskom garderoberu. Pored male crne haljine, rame uz rame, i sakoi od tvida postaju pravi "must have". Osim kratkih haljina, bivale su sve popularnije kratke ženske frizure. Značaj pomenute revolucije ogleda se u slobodi žena.
 
U to vreme veliki značaj u industriji mode imao je i Čarlston. Haljine su takođe bile jednostavnih krojeva, laganih i prijatnih materijala, prilagođene podijumu za igru. Često su imale interesantne detalje na sebi poput resica. Uz cloche šešir ili traku za kosu u koju je zadenuto pero, naglašenu šminku, bisernu ogrlicu i visoke potpetice, dame iz doba Čarlstona odisale su neverovatnim glamurom.

The twenties of the last century were marked by a revolution in the world of fashion. The initiator of this revolution was the famous Coco Chanel. Driven by her own modernist urges, she created womens' clothes by looking up to mens' clothes. Shorter dresses were in, along with flat and comfortable cuts, and focus was put on simplicity and comfort. Among them, the small black dress emerged, and it is an indispensable item in every closet. Shoulder by shoulder with the small black dress, tweed jackets became a real must have item, and hair cuts became shorter as well. The impact of the said revolution can be viewed as the fight for womens' freedoms.

Charleston also had a great impact in the fashion industry at the time. Their dresses also featured simple cuts, light and pleasant materials, adapted to the dance floor. They often had interesting details on them, like fringes. Along with a cloche hat or a head band with a feather attached, accentuated makeup, pearl necklace and high heels, ladies from the Charleston era exuded glamour. 

1930s

Usled velike ekonomske krize, žene su se sve više radile usled čega je došlo do raslojavanja dnevne i večernje garderobe. Sa revolucijom Koko Šanel, još dvadesetih godina su žene počele da nose odela, što je posebno zaživelo tridesetih godina kada se čuvena Marlen Ditrih pojavila u smokingu sa cilindrom. Ovakva garderoba je bivala sve popularnija. Pored udobnosti, omogućila je ženama da, na do tada neviđen način, iskažu svoju ženstvenost. Visok struk, zvonaste nogavice, kratke pantalone, kao i suknja-pantalone dominantna su obeležja modne industrije ovog razdoblja.

Due to the large economic crisis, women worked more, and it caused the further layering between daily and evening cloths. With Coco Chanel's revolution in the 20s women started wearing suits, and it was even more popular in the 30s when the famous Marlene Dietrich showed up in a tuxedo and top hat. This kind of clothes was becoming more and more popular. Besides comfort, it allowed women to express their femininity in new ways. High waist, flare pants and skirt-pants were dominant marks of the fashion industry of this era. 

1940s

Ovo razdoblje obeleženo je II svetskim ratom, oskudicom i borbom za opstanak. Shodno tome se i moda menjala. Usled nestašice materijala, štedi se na svemu - izbacuju se džepovi, ukrasi, smanjuje broj dugmića, skraćuju suknje i pantalone. Već postojeći komadi garderobe redizajniraju, ne bi li im udahnuli novi izgled. Zbog nedostatka sredstava za higijenu koristile su se marame i turbani, dok su šeširi predstavljali pravi luksuz, te su se stari dekorisali. Ovo razdoblje je poznato po modelu jakne po imenu Eisenhowen, pravljenom od starih uniformi. Takođe, usled nestašice čarapa, žene su ajlajnerom povlačile vertikalnu crtu duž cele zadnje strane listova i butina.

This era is marked by the Second World War - an era of scarcity and battles for survival. Fashion changed accordingly. With scarce materials, everything that could be saved on, was saved on - pockets were removed along with decorations, buttons were dropped, and skirts and pants became shorter. Existing pieces of clothes are redesigned in attempt to give them a new life. Due to shortage of toiletries scarfs and turbans were used, while hats were a real luxury, so old ones were decoradted. This era is, among other things, known for the Eisenhowen jacket, made from the old uniforms. Also,  because of the shortages of socks, women drew vertical lines on the back side of their calves and thighs using an eyeliner. 

1950s

Ovo razdoblje smešteno je između oskudnih četrdesetih i raskošnih šezdesetih godina. Pod uticajem magazina, televizije i bioskopa mladi preuzimaju stvar u svoje ruke i kreiraju tzv. tinejdžerski stil, potpuno drugačiji od stila koji je do tada pratio svet odraslih. Izražen struk, suknje od žipona u gloknu midi dužine karakteristične su za ovaj period. Vođen stilom mladih, Kristian Dior vratio se modnoj industriji 1947. godine sa tzv. "Novim izgledom". Tadašnju modu osvežava H stilom, koga su karakterisale tunike i uske suknje. Koko Šanel se, takođe, vraća modnoj industriji i dizajniranju slavnih kompleta od tvida. Modne uzore predstavljale su i tadašnje filmske zvezde poput Sofije Loren, Odri Hepbern, Merlin Monro i Grejs Keli.

This area fits between the scarce 40s and luxurious 60s. Under the influence of magazines, television and film theaters, young people take things into their hands and create the so called teenager style, which is completely different from the style that until then followed the world of adults. Accentuated waist,  petticoat skirts of medium length were the signature of this era. Christian Dior returned to the fashion industry in 1947 with the so-called "New look". He refreshed the fashion scene of the time with the H style, which was characterised by tunics and tight skirts. Coco Chanel also returns to the fashion industry and designing the famous tweed outfits. Fashion icons of the time were mostly film stars like Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly.

1960s

Neverovatna doza kreativnosti koja karakteriše ovo razdoblje doprinela je razvitku slobodne misli. Tome je doprinelo rađanje umetničkog pravca pod imenom "Pop art" za koje je zaslužan slavni Endi Vorhol. Pravo osveženje u modnoj industriji predstavljaju modeli suknji i haljina u obliku trapeza, kao i kasnija pojava mini suknji. Došlo je do potpunog preokreta u poimanju ženske lepote kada se u časopisu Vog pojavila manekenka Lesli Hornbi, poznatija pod nadimkom Tvigi. Ona je svojim ekstremno mršavim telom zaslepela modnu pistu i postala uzor manekenkama od tada do dana današnjeg. Modne kreacije inspirisane su futurizmom, usled čega garderoba počinje da se dizajnira od veštačkih materijala, geometrijskih oblika u metalik bojama poput srebrne. Neutralna šminka sa naglašenim usnama, glomazan nakit, bob frizura, niže potpetice i kratke čizme karakterišu estetiku ovog razdoblja. Muškarci se odevaju u uska odela, a tadašnjoj modi je u velikoj meri dobrinela i muzička grupa Bitls. Čitavo razdoblje je i dan danas poznato po nazivom "Swinging sixties".

The incredible dose of creativity characterising this period contributed to the development of free thought. Another contributing factor is the "Pop art" movement spearheaded by the famous Andy Warhol. A real refreshment in the fashion industry were skirt and dress models in the shape of a trapeze, as well as the later emergence of the miniskirts. There was a complete turnaround in the understanding of female beauty after Lesley Hornby, nicknamed Twiggy, appeared in the Vogue magazine. She blinded the runway with her extremely skinny body and became a role model for the fashion models from then to this very day. Fashion creations were inspired by futurism, which meant that clothes were manufactured from artificial materials, in geometric shapes, and in metallic colours like silver. Neutral makeup with accentuated lips, large jewelry, bob haircut, lower heels and short boots were characteristic for the aesthetic of this era. Men dress in tightly cut suits, and the male fashion of the time was under heavy influence by the music group The Beatles. The entire era is to this day known as "swinging sixties".

1970s

Vesele sedemadesete karakteriše ništa drugo do smelih odevnih kombinacija inspirisanih u velikoj meri tadašnjom muzičkom scenom. Hipi pokret najviše zaživljava tokom ovih godina. Prepoznatljiv je po jakim i veselim bojama, cvetnih detalja, boot-cut pantalonama i tunikama. Kreira se garderoba koja može da se nosi u svim prilikama pod nazivom "wrap-dress" - haljine za rad u kancelariji, ali i večernje izlaske. Iv Sen Loran kreira liniju pod nazivom "Bogati seljak". Za razliku od prethodnih razdoblja, u ovom razdoblju se suknje i haljine produžuju čime bivaju sve popularnije midi i maxi dužine. Pantalone su kreirane sa ekstremno zvonastim nogavicama. Veliku popularnost imale su zvoncare i gornjaci od teksasa. Poigravalo se sa različitim frizurama, sa akcentom na volumen koji se postizao tapiranjem skalpa i blagim talasima. Od detalja su se nosile neobične naočare izduženog i ovalnog oblike, ali i okrugle poznate kao Lenonke.

The happy 70s were characterised by courageous dress combinations inspired largely by the music scene of the time. Hippie movement became the mainstream during this years and it is recognisable by strong and bright colours, floral details, bootcut pants and tunics. Clothes are created to be worn in every situation, like the "wrap-dress" - a dress that could be worn during work in the office, as well as an evening out. Yves Saint Laurent created the line under name "Rich peasant". In contrast to previous eras, skirts and dresses become longer, and medium and maxi lengths become very popular. Bell bottom pants were created, and were very popular along denim vests. Haircuts were also a part of the experiment, with accent on the volume that was achieved by teased scalp and creating gentle waves. Detail-wise, unusual glasses in shape of an oval were popular alongside the round ones known as the Lennon glasses

1980s

Slavne ličnosti poput pop zvezda Madone i Majkla Džeksona, ali i filmovi poput Flešdensa, imaju značajan uticaj na oblačenje mladih u ovom razdoblju. Modna kuća Kelvin Klajn konačno doživljava veliku popularnost svojom linijom donjeg veša. Karl Lagerfeld počinje da radi za Šanel, uvodeći osvežavajuće promene u vidu spajanja nespojivog - starog i novog. Pokret "novi romantizam" obeležio je sam početak ove decenije. Inspiraciju je crpeo u metal muzici, a ispoljavao kroz modu. Od frizura veliku popularnost doživljavaju sitne kovrdže poznatije kao minival ili trajna ondulacija. Odeća je bila predimenzionirana sa naramenicama čime su žene odražavale sopstvenu snagu. Poigravalo se sa materijalima, od kojih je somot doživeo veliku popularnost. Pufnasti rukavi, široke manžetne, volani i karneri odražavaju šik tadašnje mode.

Celebrities like Madonna and Michael Jackson, as well as films like Flashdance, had a large influence in dressing styles of young people of this era. The fashion house Calvin Klein finally achieved popularity with their line of underwear. Karl Lagerfeld started working for Chanel, introducing refreshing changes in terms of combining the new and the old. The "new romantism" movement marked the very beginnings of this decade. It drew inspiration from the heavy metal music, and manifested it through fashion. In terms of haircuts, the most popular was permanent ondulation or simply, perm. Clothes were oversized with large shoulder pads which women used to reflect their own power. Materials were played with, and velvet became very popular. Puffy sleeves, wide cuffs and flounce were chic in the fashion of the time.

1990s

Veliki uticaj na tadašnju modu ima muzika, te dolazi do raslojavanja u zavisnosti od muzičkih žanrova. Grandž muzika, kao spoj panka i hevi metala, doživljava ogromnu popularnost usled pojave bendova poput Nirvane. Ugledajući se na slavne zvezde, mladi se odevaju u pocepane farmerke, flanelske karirane košulje, Starke ili Dr Martin čizme. Ljubitelji hip-hop kulture nose široke farmerke, over-sized majice, zlatne lance i kačkete. Naši prostori popularni su po tzv. dizelašima. Njihov stil odevanja činile su šuškave trenerke jarkih boja i dezena, Air Max patike i zlatni lanci. Interesantno je napomenuti da su imali običaj da gornji deo trenerke upasuju u donji. Vrhunac popularnosti dostigao je čuveni modni kreator Đani Versaće, čije su kreacije bile karakteristične po seksipilnosti kojoj su doprinosili uski krojevi i duboki šlicevi. Rolke su se pravile od rebrastih materijala sa krecavima ivicama, a bluze od tankih, često prozirinih, materijala na tanke bretele.

Music had the large influence on the fashion of this decade, and with each genre of music the style was different. Grunge music, which is a mixture of punk and heavy metal, became popular with bands like Nirvana. Looking up to the rockstars, young people dressed in ripped jeans, flannel shirts, and All Stars sneakers or Dr Martens boots. Fans of hip-hop cultures wore wide jeans, oversized shirts, golden chains and caps. The Balkans were known for the dieselheads, whose style was characterised by tracksuits of bright colours and patterns, Air Max sneakers and golden chains. It was interesting that they would actually tuck in the upper part of the tracksuit into the pants. Gianni Versace reached the peak of popularity with his creations characteristic for sex appeal which were attributed to tight cuts and deep slick. Turtle necks were made from ribbed materials, and blouses were made from thin, often transparent materials sporting thin suspenders.

4 comments:

  1. Ovo je sjajno,svaka cast devojke!Pratim :)
    Jvncc

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  2. Divan post draga <3
    Pogledaj moj blog . Pišem o fashion,beauty i lifestyle temama .Bilo bi mi drago da zapratimo jedna drugu i uživamo u novim postovima ♥

    http://herecomesajla.blogspot.ba/

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